tek-monkey
wanna see my snake?
As is probably obvious from the thread title, my bike is buggered! Anyone know a decent mechanic? Need someone local and above all cheap!
-
Welcome to Stafford Forum. Please or sign-up and start posting!
Anyone know a decent motorbike mechanic?
- Thread starter tek-monkey
- Start date
Lunar Scorpion
Anarchy in the UK
Stop thrusting it from behind then... 
Sorry.
Sorry.
tek-monkey
wanna see my snake?
Seriously considering it, but I'm skint 
tek-monkey
wanna see my snake?
Well I just got offered a cat D stolen/recovered for £400, would need someone to check it over though as I'm not confident enough. So if anybody knows someone willing to do it for me please let me know.
That would then leave me with a non-starter to fix up and sell, but TBH I like my current bike
That would then leave me with a non-starter to fix up and sell, but TBH I like my current bike
tek-monkey
wanna see my snake?
Well my bike is at least back home in the garage now, rather than sat out in the cold. My GF had the cunning plan of calling the RAC, never crossed my mind because as far as I was concerned the bike was already home, albeit hers! They couldn't start it though, reckoned it was a short somewhere as there is now a click from under the seat instead of the starter moter, erm, starting. So he drove it back to mine, where at least I have tools.
Not that I know how to use them!
Not that I know how to use them!
Markerat
I'm no gynaecologist...
I'm no gynacologist but i will have a look. Are you the chap that lives on sandon road opposite the nursery ?
I got a ONC mechanical engineering, 3 city and guilds one of which is in electrical and electronic repair and diagnostics.
A five year apprenticeship in mech engineering at technician level.
I recently saved myself 400 quid by rewiring my headlights from xenon to normal halogen.
Its an offer and i dont normally charge.
I got a ONC mechanical engineering, 3 city and guilds one of which is in electrical and electronic repair and diagnostics.
A five year apprenticeship in mech engineering at technician level.
I recently saved myself 400 quid by rewiring my headlights from xenon to normal halogen.
Its an offer and i dont normally charge.
tek-monkey
wanna see my snake?
Lol!
If you don't mind I'd really appreciate it. My step dad is taking a look tomorrow hopefully, as he's over, but if we have no joy I'll definately take you up on your offer. I also have no problem in paying, I'm just a tad skint which is why I'm avoiding the garages at the moment! Can fix PCs, although it seems most people can nowadays.
I'll give more details on what the actual problem is in a min, at work and got a lot on. Thanks again
If you don't mind I'd really appreciate it. My step dad is taking a look tomorrow hopefully, as he's over, but if we have no joy I'll definately take you up on your offer. I also have no problem in paying, I'm just a tad skint which is why I'm avoiding the garages at the moment! Can fix PCs, although it seems most people can nowadays.
I'll give more details on what the actual problem is in a min, at work and got a lot on. Thanks again
Markerat
I'm no gynaecologist...
I dont want to clag up the forum too much but usually starter motors are bendix which throws in a starter pinion onto the flywheel teeth ring gear and makes it turn. The other sort is is called pre engaged which remains in contact with the ring gear but pushes off once a critical speed is reached i.e. the engine has fired.
Incase your in any doubt i hope this helps:
1. Rider/Driver presses the start button or turns the key
2. A tiny electrical current signal is passed into the relay coil, This should close the latch that brings the pain of a massive amount of electrical surge into the starter motor.
3. The bendix shoots forward with the inertia of the rotation and engages the ring gear.
4. The starter drives the engine over until its speed exceeds the starter motor
5. The sprag detects mechanically by use of flyweights that its time to retreat and decouples from the ring gear.
6.The driver/rider lets go of the starter button/key and the bendix returns back to home position
When you say "there is now a click from under the seat instead of the starter moter" my personal bet is that the relay is there and you need to check its latching properly and also there is a bloody big wire going from "battery to relay" and "relay to starter motor".
Oh and torirat i doubt that tek-monkey ever pays for little jobs round the house by dressing up a red slinky dress and full on la sensa underwear for an delightful evening of fruity shenanagins. (he may, i just doubt it)
Incase your in any doubt i hope this helps:
1. Rider/Driver presses the start button or turns the key
2. A tiny electrical current signal is passed into the relay coil, This should close the latch that brings the pain of a massive amount of electrical surge into the starter motor.
3. The bendix shoots forward with the inertia of the rotation and engages the ring gear.
4. The starter drives the engine over until its speed exceeds the starter motor
5. The sprag detects mechanically by use of flyweights that its time to retreat and decouples from the ring gear.
6.The driver/rider lets go of the starter button/key and the bendix returns back to home position
When you say "there is now a click from under the seat instead of the starter moter" my personal bet is that the relay is there and you need to check its latching properly and also there is a bloody big wire going from "battery to relay" and "relay to starter motor".
Oh and torirat i doubt that tek-monkey ever pays for little jobs round the house by dressing up a red slinky dress and full on la sensa underwear for an delightful evening of fruity shenanagins. (he may, i just doubt it)
Gramaisc
Forum O. G.
I have found, several times now, that the earth connections often become less than adequate after a few years. Often the earth to the engine in particular is adequate when the bike is new, but what is actually happening is that the lacquer on the engine stops an actual face to face contact with the pad on the strap, but the current is happy to flow down the bolt and across the thread into the engine block when everything is clean and new. After a few years, however, the thread faces corrode a bit and eventually the resistance of the joint goes up enough to curtail the action of the starter motor. There can sometimes be a warming up of the wiring loom at the same time, as there are sometimes various sneak circuits available that should normally be shunted by the earth strap. Common on Kwaks. Clean up and Vaseline all the earth strap faces and see what happens. It won't do any harm and this fault will happen in the end anyway. The same applies to the battery/relay and relay/motor cables, but it is usually the earth straps that are at fault.
Markerat
I'm no gynaecologist...
We had almost that exact situation on a bloody big industrial engine and wanted to check the starter was still good.
My electrical fitter mate cleaned it all up and bench tested the motor by jamming a large 2X4 bit of wood in the pinion. It picked him up off his feet and chewed the wood to tooth picks in seconds.
He flicked the switch off and cool as a cucumber turned round to the assembled croud watching and said "that bits working then" to a round of cheers and laughs. If anyone knows John Hudson the electrician you know that nothing phases the man especially not good beer and good company.
My electrical fitter mate cleaned it all up and bench tested the motor by jamming a large 2X4 bit of wood in the pinion. It picked him up off his feet and chewed the wood to tooth picks in seconds.
He flicked the switch off and cool as a cucumber turned round to the assembled croud watching and said "that bits working then" to a round of cheers and laughs. If anyone knows John Hudson the electrician you know that nothing phases the man especially not good beer and good company.
tek-monkey
wanna see my snake?
Cheers both.
Heres a little background on whats happening right now. When I press the ignition, it either does the click thing or tries to turn over. If it tries to turn over, it is very slow. Almost as if there is a lot of resistance, or the battery is flat. The battery appears fine, but will die within a few mins of hammering the starter. It will sometimes turn over fine, but even then it won't actually start. I got a few bangs out of it last night, so there is some spark, but I have no idea how much. Plugs are new and have been cleaned.
The reason I mention resistance is that the clutch appears dodgy now too. If in neutral the bike freewheels, but if in gear it wont even with the clutch in. I'm sure this didn't used to be the case, sounds weird.
What bugs me is that I had someone in Stoke look at it before xmas, and it ran great after. Unfortunately I let it stand for 2 weeks over xmas and since then its been very dodgy. I have heard issues with 'varnishing' in the carb if left to stand, which sounds possible. The poor thing has also been stood in the cold for a week before I finally got it home on Mon.
I have no manual for it, they don't make one! Here is the parts breakdown if it is of any use. Give me a PC and I'm fine, but vehicles confuse me.
Heres a little background on whats happening right now. When I press the ignition, it either does the click thing or tries to turn over. If it tries to turn over, it is very slow. Almost as if there is a lot of resistance, or the battery is flat. The battery appears fine, but will die within a few mins of hammering the starter. It will sometimes turn over fine, but even then it won't actually start. I got a few bangs out of it last night, so there is some spark, but I have no idea how much. Plugs are new and have been cleaned.
The reason I mention resistance is that the clutch appears dodgy now too. If in neutral the bike freewheels, but if in gear it wont even with the clutch in. I'm sure this didn't used to be the case, sounds weird.
What bugs me is that I had someone in Stoke look at it before xmas, and it ran great after. Unfortunately I let it stand for 2 weeks over xmas and since then its been very dodgy. I have heard issues with 'varnishing' in the carb if left to stand, which sounds possible. The poor thing has also been stood in the cold for a week before I finally got it home on Mon.
I have no manual for it, they don't make one! Here is the parts breakdown if it is of any use. Give me a PC and I'm fine, but vehicles confuse me.
Markerat
I'm no gynaecologist...
I've got a can of pro grade gunk under my sink which is basically a can of xylene and triche. Its lethal shit to be honest and can kill in a confined area. If there is varnishing in the carb that will clear it immediately. It has also been known to shift any residue out of needles as well sometimes leaving them oversize and making too much fuel be metered.
I'm looking at the pdf now you sent to see if there is a clutch release bearing that is causing the drag you mention. Sometimes they can stick.
I will assume that the bike has oil in of the correct grade and viscosity ?
Also just a thought the battery has distilled water in to correct level too.
Earth strap checking is primary on the list too.
I think i could be at teks house if it is where i think it is in less than three mins lol, multimeter in one hand and gunk in other.
I'm looking at the pdf now you sent to see if there is a clutch release bearing that is causing the drag you mention. Sometimes they can stick.
I will assume that the bike has oil in of the correct grade and viscosity ?
Also just a thought the battery has distilled water in to correct level too.
Earth strap checking is primary on the list too.
I think i could be at teks house if it is where i think it is in less than three mins lol, multimeter in one hand and gunk in other.
Gramaisc
Forum O. G.
If the intended earth strap is not functioning then the frame/engine connection may actually be occuring down the clutch cable - unlikely, but it's not impossible that this could affect the adjustment. You should be able to alter this manually at the lever end - if it's a cable operated clutch, of course, if not then ignore this bit. I would clean the earth straps anyway - it'll make you feel better if nothing else. And it has revived four bikes in my past.
If it's turning slow then there is a high resistance somewhere or the battery is on the way out ( or the load from the engine is higher than it should be, but that need not worry us, unless it's on the verge of seizing! ) . How old is the battery? They don't last for ever. Can you jump it from a known battery? I have a starter pack about three hundred metres from where I believe Tek Monkey Towers to be.
If it's turning slow then there is a high resistance somewhere or the battery is on the way out ( or the load from the engine is higher than it should be, but that need not worry us, unless it's on the verge of seizing! ) . How old is the battery? They don't last for ever. Can you jump it from a known battery? I have a starter pack about three hundred metres from where I believe Tek Monkey Towers to be.
Markerat
I'm no gynaecologist...
any news or further update ?
This is my cleaner with various harmful chemicals
http://www.gunk.com/prod_photo.asp
http://www.gunk.com/msds/M710.pdf
guaranteed to de-varnish pretty much anything lol. Take it from me you really dont want to use this in a confined area lol.
This is my cleaner with various harmful chemicals
http://www.gunk.com/prod_photo.asp
http://www.gunk.com/msds/M710.pdf
guaranteed to de-varnish pretty much anything lol. Take it from me you really dont want to use this in a confined area lol.
tek-monkey
wanna see my snake?
Sorry, felt like crap last night so didn't do owt. Have plague! Well, man flu anyway...
Oil - yes it has, although it has been low a few times but not too bad. Now you mention it though, I do seem to go through a lot. About 2l in 6 months anyway, that normal?
Battery - Its a sealed unit, can't seem to get in. Hadn't actually thought of that, but my old one had plugs to refill it. This has none?
Earth strap - not checked, will look tonight.
Clutch is indeed cable operated.
Battery - no idea on age. However we tried my step dads charger on it (with 180 amp booster!) and it still wouldn't work. Did seem to get to turning over quicker though, rather than just trying and not turning. Just still didn't fire.
You both live round here then? I know Gramaisc drinks in the Kings though so should have guessed! I'm on the Sandon Road, here. The second pin (if it appears) is my garage, which you have to get to round the back. Gardens like bloody narnia, seems to take forever to walk down in the dark!
Which reminds me, time for another thread.....
Oil - yes it has, although it has been low a few times but not too bad. Now you mention it though, I do seem to go through a lot. About 2l in 6 months anyway, that normal?
Battery - Its a sealed unit, can't seem to get in. Hadn't actually thought of that, but my old one had plugs to refill it. This has none?
Earth strap - not checked, will look tonight.
Clutch is indeed cable operated.
Battery - no idea on age. However we tried my step dads charger on it (with 180 amp booster!) and it still wouldn't work. Did seem to get to turning over quicker though, rather than just trying and not turning. Just still didn't fire.
You both live round here then? I know Gramaisc drinks in the Kings though so should have guessed! I'm on the Sandon Road, here. The second pin (if it appears) is my garage, which you have to get to round the back. Gardens like bloody narnia, seems to take forever to walk down in the dark!
Which reminds me, time for another thread.....