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Ian +447812073206 Bryn +447718835683 Both of D&Y carpentry Phil wain +447774969394 Both so work to a high standard

Ive already spoken to the chap about this. Seems it needs a part that I won't have time to do today with jobs I'm already committed to

Have they not suggested coming out and cutting it temporarily?

pipe under the floorboards to outside will be 21mm overflow which is fine internally. It actually is probably the only option as a bigger pipe would mean cutting too much out of floor joists in places. Outside it should be increased to 32mm. Current recommendation is to now run it all...

The metal pipe isn't the condensate it' the pressure relife valve pipe

Had 8 calls so far today. All this fault

Manually emptying condensate will only fix temporarily. Don't leave it disconnected as you may in effect allow the boiler to flue into the house. Depends on how you'e done it.

E28 is frozen condensate almost certainly. Try more hot water. But it could be somewhere awward to get at not knowing how the pipes run means it's hard to say. Doubt baxi will come out as it won't be covered by warranty.

This is almost definatley a frozen condensate. The gurgling noise is a dead give away. Try more hot water on it outside.

Whats happened to all the plumbing and heating bits? If they were left and yours to dispose of I might be interested

I suspect is was the same thing I was called out to at the island vets. The staff though they could smell gas but there was no gas leak at the property. Someone from gas board came out and while checking round with his gas detector we lifted a drain cover and realised thats where it was coming...

This isn't just the picture house and most probably not gas either. I'm not 100% as I had to leave to get home. But I believe there had been fuel spilt or emptied into the drains somewhere

Thanks, going to give it a try tonight.

Could anyone point me in the direction of a menu to order a takeaway from here.

Think he means osb

@tek-monkey pics don't work

Just looked back and seen you have a tado one. That is a very simple install, not seen one myself but a good option for an easy DIY install if anyones looking for a smart stat. The reason the hive hasn't gone down that route I suspect is it can also control the hot water times on a y/s plan...

In my experience that's not true at all. The only one that I'm aware of that allows that type of installation is the nest. But it still requires the wiring of a separate unit that needs picking up live from the heating circuit somewhere. The nest is poorly designed from an installation point...

You have a wired room stat and internal boiler programmer. So same as I suggested above really. Pick up power from boiler or fuse spur and remove stat wiring from boiler and replace it with link to new receiver unit. Then just leave internal boiler programmer permanently on.