I’ve got a selection of different sized snap on extensions.
I had a nice king dick when I was younger but I broke the end off it.
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Know your workshop tools.
- Thread starter joshua
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I had a nice king dick when I was younger but I broke the end off it.
Gramaisc
Forum O. G.
Talk elsewhere of Bahco products coincided with this formidable item being relocated during the ongoing Shed reorganisation.
Intended for the removal of nails driven down to level with, or below, the surface of the wood, it is particularly useful for getting floorboards up with the minimum of destruction.
The sliding handle hammers the jaws in either side of the nail, then levering it out causes the jaws to grip the top of the nail. It generally works - and leaves you with just a small amount of damage to the wood surface, either side of the nail hole.
Intended for the removal of nails driven down to level with, or below, the surface of the wood, it is particularly useful for getting floorboards up with the minimum of destruction.
The sliding handle hammers the jaws in either side of the nail, then levering it out causes the jaws to grip the top of the nail. It generally works - and leaves you with just a small amount of damage to the wood surface, either side of the nail hole.
Gramaisc
Forum O. G.
Endless hacksaws...
These enable you to cut make cuts in sheet materials, without being stopped by the frame, as you would with a normal hacksaw.
The Eclipse one is much easier to use, as long as you are making a straight cut that starts at an outside edge. The plate is just thinner than the kerf of the blade.
.The Leytool one, however, will start from a hole the diameter of the height of the blade and allow (slight) curves to be cut - though, it needs much more care in use. The support tube has a slot in it to stiffen the top of the blade and is spring-loaded, to allow the front guide to remain outside the material being cut. The knurled knob above the handle locks the guide tube at the full extension, if you want to use the saw for making shallow cuts to (almost) the depth of the blade.
The clamp in the picture above is holding the 'frame' tube in the compressed position.
It's not an easy thing to use, but it will get you out of a tight corner, on occasion.
Note, I declined the kind offer of the worms, as I had already put a sausage roll of the Shed oven.
These enable you to cut make cuts in sheet materials, without being stopped by the frame, as you would with a normal hacksaw.
The Eclipse one is much easier to use, as long as you are making a straight cut that starts at an outside edge. The plate is just thinner than the kerf of the blade.
.The Leytool one, however, will start from a hole the diameter of the height of the blade and allow (slight) curves to be cut - though, it needs much more care in use. The support tube has a slot in it to stiffen the top of the blade and is spring-loaded, to allow the front guide to remain outside the material being cut. The knurled knob above the handle locks the guide tube at the full extension, if you want to use the saw for making shallow cuts to (almost) the depth of the blade.
The clamp in the picture above is holding the 'frame' tube in the compressed position.
It's not an easy thing to use, but it will get you out of a tight corner, on occasion.
Note, I declined the kind offer of the worms, as I had already put a sausage roll of the Shed oven.
Gramaisc
Forum O. G.
We were sorting out garden tools and (re)found these interesting shears.
I imagine that the reciprocating ones are intended to help you maintain a flat surface - and they might, if you used them enough.
The 'double-headed' ones are presumably intended to do the job a bit quicker.
The small ones are for child labour, obviously.
And the Wilkinson ladies' shears are very nicely made.
I imagine that the reciprocating ones are intended to help you maintain a flat surface - and they might, if you used them enough.
The 'double-headed' ones are presumably intended to do the job a bit quicker.
The small ones are for child labour, obviously.
And the Wilkinson ladies' shears are very nicely made.
littleme
250,000th poster!
He likes the limelight, doesn't he!?
Gramaisc
Forum O. G.
I've been putting bromide in their peanuts.
My life is one of constant surveillance and harassment.
Gramaisc
Forum O. G.
I found these interesting vice-grips hiding with that hammer the other day.
I picked them up at the boot sale around 2000 and they have been very handy.
They have a 'slip-joint', making the range of 'parallel grip' much greater than with fixed ones.
They also have the ability to look amusingly like a fish.
They are a Facom product, though not identified as such.
I picked them up at the boot sale around 2000 and they have been very handy.
They have a 'slip-joint', making the range of 'parallel grip' much greater than with fixed ones.
They also have the ability to look amusingly like a fish.
They are a Facom product, though not identified as such.
Gramaisc
Forum O. G.
I bought this at a boot sale years ago, but have not used it until now.
The maker's mark says "Cast Steel - Dronfield", but the maker's name has been largely worn away by whatever it was used for before. The H remains, and the style of the imprinting does line up with it being a Harrison product. This looks to be a very specific thing, probably horticultural, but I have no specific idea what it should be used for. I would be interested, if anybody actually knows.
Having a bit of broom handle left from doing the towel rail by the stove in the Shed, I made a handle.
It has proved to be an efficient weeding tool.
Ram the blade down the side of the roots and lever it out. Fairly labour-efficient and leaving little disturbance around the target site.
The maker's mark says "Cast Steel - Dronfield", but the maker's name has been largely worn away by whatever it was used for before. The H remains, and the style of the imprinting does line up with it being a Harrison product. This looks to be a very specific thing, probably horticultural, but I have no specific idea what it should be used for. I would be interested, if anybody actually knows.
Having a bit of broom handle left from doing the towel rail by the stove in the Shed, I made a handle.
It has proved to be an efficient weeding tool.
Ram the blade down the side of the roots and lever it out. Fairly labour-efficient and leaving little disturbance around the target site.
Noah
Well-Known Forumite
Dronfield is a bit south of Sheffield.
Gramaisc
Forum O. G.
Indeed, the company still seems to exist, in an amalgamated form.
Gramaisc
Forum O. G.
Another whim purchase at the boot sale many years ago, that has turned out to be very useful.
Four punches, but they don't require hitting by a hammer - the required pointy end is held in place on the target, then the other end is pulled back, to a distance sufficient to store the necessary energy in the spring, and let go - the mass of the released end (propelled and guided by the spring) imparts an impact force to the pointy end and the target is thus marked as required.
I use these far more than a traditional 'punch and hammer' or an 'automatic centre punch', as they don't need the target to be heavily restrained, its own inertia is usually enough and it's much easier and quicker to adjust the striking force than it is with an 'automatic' one.
The chisel-ended one probably gets the second most use, after the basic punch (on the right), it's handy for just flicking the odd burr or weld-spatter off - the other two are a self-centring punch, to punch an object behind another with a hole in, and a double-ended punch, producing indentations with a choice of cone angles.
Four punches, but they don't require hitting by a hammer - the required pointy end is held in place on the target, then the other end is pulled back, to a distance sufficient to store the necessary energy in the spring, and let go - the mass of the released end (propelled and guided by the spring) imparts an impact force to the pointy end and the target is thus marked as required.
I use these far more than a traditional 'punch and hammer' or an 'automatic centre punch', as they don't need the target to be heavily restrained, its own inertia is usually enough and it's much easier and quicker to adjust the striking force than it is with an 'automatic' one.
The chisel-ended one probably gets the second most use, after the basic punch (on the right), it's handy for just flicking the odd burr or weld-spatter off - the other two are a self-centring punch, to punch an object behind another with a hole in, and a double-ended punch, producing indentations with a choice of cone angles.
Gramaisc
Forum O. G.
More of an appliance than a tool, but I'm impressed with this timer that I got off eBay last September. It was intended to provide an automated means of running the immersion heater, when the oil boiler is off. I've never actually got around to fitting it yet, though.
It has an internal battery, to cope with power cuts and keep the clock running and the programme memory in place, until the power is restored.
I was surprised to find it running when it was delivered - and even more surprised now to find it still going a year later, never having been connected to a mains supply in the intervening period. The programme that I put in is still running, as well as the clock, although it doesn't actually drive the relay without the mains supply. One day, I will actually fit it...
It has an internal battery, to cope with power cuts and keep the clock running and the programme memory in place, until the power is restored.
I was surprised to find it running when it was delivered - and even more surprised now to find it still going a year later, never having been connected to a mains supply in the intervening period. The programme that I put in is still running, as well as the clock, although it doesn't actually drive the relay without the mains supply. One day, I will actually fit it...
Gramaisc
Forum O. G.
I was given this straight-edge and tee-square, as debris from a clear-out.
They came from Generators drawing office and go back at least into the 1950s.
They were in reasonable condition, but have had a clean-up and a bit of a refinish - plus the edges being 'sharpened' up.
Some sort of tropical hardwood, I suspect - light, but very hard.
The tee-square has a celluloid edge, so you can see beneath it - handy, sometimes.
A plane was run along the three edges, until a fine, steady spiral came off - all straight and no little notches now.
They came from Generators drawing office and go back at least into the 1950s.
They were in reasonable condition, but have had a clean-up and a bit of a refinish - plus the edges being 'sharpened' up.
Some sort of tropical hardwood, I suspect - light, but very hard.
The tee-square has a celluloid edge, so you can see beneath it - handy, sometimes.
A plane was run along the three edges, until a fine, steady spiral came off - all straight and no little notches now.
Theresa Green
Well-Known Forumite
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staffordjas
Well-Known Forumite
I had one of them.
Gramaisc
Forum O. G.
Doing a trial run for a small light over the fireside chair meant using my old 'Quicktest', a handy device for a temporary electrical connection.
A Quicktest is a handy connector for supplying mains power (reasonably) safely to devices without a plug fitted.
When the lid is open, the live and neutral terminals are isolated, and the earth is still connected. The neon bulb indicates that a mains connection is available, as soon as the lid is closed.
The colour-coded, neutral, earth and live spring-loaded "piano keys" will connect the loose wires of the item you wish to test and, when the lid is closed, supply them with mains power. Very handy for a quick test, as the name suggests.
A Quicktest is a handy connector for supplying mains power (reasonably) safely to devices without a plug fitted.
When the lid is open, the live and neutral terminals are isolated, and the earth is still connected. The neon bulb indicates that a mains connection is available, as soon as the lid is closed.
The colour-coded, neutral, earth and live spring-loaded "piano keys" will connect the loose wires of the item you wish to test and, when the lid is closed, supply them with mains power. Very handy for a quick test, as the name suggests.