Screws...

basil

don't mention the blinds
Short screws, long screws, thick screws, thin screws. Question is, which type is best for squeaky floorboards as in the MDF/Chipboard type. My old mate Gilbert reckons that the galvanised outdoor decking are economical however I'd like other advice....
 

Gramaisc

Forum O. G.
You just need a good, long screw, driven home hard.

ae235

Decking screws would be OK. Ideally, it should be longish (not long enough to come out the other side of the beam, of course) and with a plain section that is longer than the thickness of the boards. In most substances, the head will pull in below the surface.

Avoid fully threaded screws, like this.
11690_P

You can end up back where you started, especially in chipboard. The thread can just hold the faces apart, then, after the floor has been walked on a few times, you can be back to squeaking on the original nails, if that is what is happening.

Nailing chipboard floors is not a good idea,.
 

Alee

Well-Known Forumite
I had my squeaky boards fixed a few years ago , the repair guy came armed with a hell of a lot of screws and redid the whole floor . Still had some squeaks though. He then sprayed loads of wd40 between all the boards , squeaks were gone !
 

Gramaisc

Forum O. G.
Sometimes, the squeaks can be from the bridging, particularly cross-bridging.

floor%20joist%20bridging%20cr.jpg

You can screw as hard as you like on the boards then - and still get some squeaks.
 

Apricot

Well-Known Forumite
You just need a good, long screw, driven home hard.

ae235

Decking screws would be OK. Ideally, it should be longish (not long enough to come out the other side of the beam, of course) and with a plain section that is longer than the thickness of the boards. In most substances, the head will pull in below the surface.

Avoid fully threaded screws, like this.
11690_P

You can end up back where you started, especially in chipboard. The thread can just hold the faces apart, then, after the floor has been walked on a few times, you can be back to squeaking on the original nails, if that is what is happening.

Nailing chipboard floors is not a good idea,.


That explains a lot! If only I'd known about not using fully threaded screws when I was building the shelving for the back of my van.

This sort of stuff should be taught at school.
 

Gramaisc

Forum O. G.
That explains a lot! If only I'd known about not using fully threaded screws when I was building the shelving for the back of my van.

This sort of stuff should be taught at school.
If it's feasible, you could pop the screws out, one at a time, drill a clearance in the shelf and bang 'em back in again.

If the shelves are actual wood ( or plywood ) the screw may tighten in the shelf, without really pulling the shelf hard against the beam (or whatever) the shelf is intended to be attached to.

Edit - that should really say "drill a clearance hole in the piece that has the head-end of the screw in it", just in case the screws are fitted though the beam ( or whatever ) into the shelf.

S-3-8.jpg

This sort of stuff should be taught at school.
Woodwork teachers are required by law to be called Mr Williams.
 
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John Marwood

I ♥ cryptic crosswords
If it's feasible, you could pop the screws out, one at a time, drill a clearance in the shelf and bang 'em back in again.

If the shelves are actual wood ( or plywood ) the screw may tighten in the shelf, without really pulling the shelf hard against the beam (or whatever) the shelf is intended to be attached to.

Edit - that should really say "drill a clearance hole in the piece that has the head-end of the screw in it", just in case the screws are fitted though the beam ( or whatever ) into the shelf.

S-3-8.jpg

Woodwork teachers are required by law to be called Mr Williams.


Nasher Harris ( author )

Taught in Stafford

[url=https://postimg.org/image/s6uja4cpr/] gifs upload[/URL]
 
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Apricot

Well-Known Forumite
If it's feasible, you could pop the screws out, one at a time, drill a clearance in the shelf and bang 'em back in again.

If the shelves are actual wood ( or plywood ) the screw may tighten in the shelf, without really pulling the shelf hard against the beam (or whatever) the shelf is intended to be attached to.

Edit - that should really say "drill a clearance hole in the piece that has the head-end of the screw in it", just in case the screws are fitted though the beam ( or whatever ) into the shelf.

S-3-8.jpg

Woodwork teachers are required by law to be called Mr Williams.


I got a reasonable result in the end. I built the shelves first using metal brackets to hold them together, so all that was fine, it was just when I tried screwing the shelf units into the van's plywood lining that I had problems. But in the end I got them lying flat against each other, not quite sure how, I just remember repeatedly screwing them, which may have had the effect of making the hole through the shelf larger, as in your diagram.

It's obvious now you explain it.

I went to an all-girls school which is probably why they didn't have woodwork. And to be fair, if they had taught it then, I would have forgotten it by now. But I seem to spend a lot of my adult life trying to get to grips with basic woodwork / diy / plumbing / car maintenance / vegetable growing stuff that I feel I ought to know.

I can wire a plug, but only if I refer to that bit of card that used to come with them, that tells you which wire is which.
 

Gramaisc

Forum O. G.
I went to an all-girls school which is probably why they didn't have woodwork.
Surely you could have sewed them on?

Actually, I never did woodwork at school at all. A bit of metalwork, but not much of any real use. I learnt most of mine up the Tip after school.
 

Apricot

Well-Known Forumite
Surely you could have sewed them on?

Actually, I never did woodwork at school at all. A bit of metalwork, but not much of any real use. I learnt most of mine up the Tip after school.

I did mend my car seat by darning it.
 
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