Wanted someone to install cooker and give me a certificate

[Alee]

im getting a new cooker in the next couple for weeks and was wondering if theres anyone (qualified) on here to install and give me a certificate? its gas and electric. tia

 

[Glam]

Rikki

 

[That-Crazy-Rat-Lady]

Rikki!

 

[wmrcomputers]

Rikki's your man, assuming he still has time for that kind of thing as I know he recently started a thread saying he's launched a new business offering boiler service plans etc.

 

[Rikki]

I am launching a new business but still carrying on as normal also.

Gas I can sort Electric I can't sorry. What type is it? Free standing or built in? Guessing gas hob and electric oven, you need to be aware that if you currently have a single oven and the new one is double the supply may not be adequate. If it's just a straight swap should be fairly straightforward.

 

[Alee]

I currently have a really crappy single electric freestanding oven and in swapping to a double freestanding electric oven /gas hob . Can that be done ? I have both electric socket thing (hard wired) and gas pipe thing there?

 

[Alee]

If it can be done , Can I do the electrics and you do the gas ? Or do I have to get someone in to do Both for me to get the certificate for the gas ? Ahhh so confusing

 

[Gramaisc]

As Rikki says, you may have supply problems, if you run both ovens at the same time - read this - http://www.staffordforum.com/xf/index.php?threads/wiring-in-an-oven.4975/ - see what the electrician says about the capacity of your supply.

 

[hop]

If it can be done , Can I do the electrics and you do the gas ? Or do I have to get someone in to do Both for me to get the certificate for the gas ? Ahhh so confusing

If the cable and the copper wire is very thick chances are the electrical side is fine and everything is on a single fuse and only the cooker is supplied by this fuse.

On the gas side things get more fun. If your pipe is too small, or the pressure too low it cause issues. Generally you should have less than a 1 milli bar drop between the outside supply and the appliance when it is is fully operating. Standard gas pressure is 20 mbar at the metre so you would expect an operating pressure of 19 mbar at the appliance. Any less and there is a *theoretical* problem.
Lets say you have a gas hob with a low pressure of 12 mbar and you have a pan boiling some pasta on the stove. You also have a boiler on the same supply line. The request for heat of the boiler kicks in and fires the boiler, this could cause it to fire and result in the boiler causing the hob flame to being extinguished. At some point the boiler cycles itself down and the gas become available to the hob. Effectively you have a gas leak.
Many hobs might have micro bore piping and will have lower pressure. Some of them shouldn't really be connected according to modern British Standards.
But don't take my word for it. I'm not a plumber / gas safe person. I have however read several thousand pages of British Standard and most of the Approved Documents on regulations, flues, building regulations, electrical safety etc....

 

[Rikki]

Sorry wasn't very clear on the electrical bit, but as said a long as you have a proper cooker point on it's own 32 amp fuse you will be ok. I only mentioned it as I have come across a few older installations where the supply isn't up to a double oven.

Hop I'm sorry to say but your terminology and figures on the pressures aren't totally correct.

Inlet working pressure is 19-23 mbar. 21 mbar plus or minus 2
This however is actually at reg/governor before meter test point
Up to 4 mbar drop possible across meter due to resistance within it (absorption)
Which means 15 mbar possible at meter test point
1 mbar drop across pipework.
This means you can have a working pressure of 14 mbar at an appliance and nothing actually wrong with the pipework

Can't say I would be happy with this and you would probably have a problem anyway as manufacturers instructions for the appliance could state they want more than this.

The scenario with a hob is totally possible, but incredibly uncommon from my experiences. Also all modern appliances have safety devices on them to automatically turn of the gas in this scenario.

 

[tek-monkey]

Sorry wasn't very clear on the electrical bit, but as said a long as you have a proper cooker point on it's own 32 amp fuse you will be ok. I only mentioned it as I have come across a few older installations where the supply isn't up to a double oven.

I've also seen houses built this millenium the same!

 

[hop]

Hop I'm sorry to say but your terminology and figures on the pressures aren't totally correct.

You can't believe much of what I might type on a thursday night. It's drinking night where I'm from and we prefer not to feel like crap at the weekend.
Interestingly I have been told by many Corgi people in was 1 mbar drop. But then again Corgi was just a trade cowboy outfit.
Not sure that Gas Safe Register is a lot better however.